The North Face of the North Peak of Mount Index

The following is excerpted from the Cascade Alpine Guide: Climbing and High Routes Vol.1: Columbia River to Stevens Pass, Second Edition, by Fred Beckey ("The Brown Guide"), pages 202 and 207-9; published by The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1987. However, the mark-up, images, and commentary are obviously mine.

Because of their public prominence, the Index peaks need little introduction. The three striking peaks, in descending progression the Main, Middle, and North, form a spectacular rock palisade between Lake Serene and Anderson Creek fronting the Skykomish River. The opposite slope, facing the Tolt River drainage, is seldom seen by comparison.

The romance of the Index area is derived from the achievements and mishaps of the prospectors who explored the area's rough subalpine slopes. Miners termed the mountain massif "West Index"; railroad surveyors had used the name Mount Index for the present Mount Baring, but in 1913 the name was transferred.

Of the three Index peaks, only the Main Peak has a relatively simple route. Index rock is brittle and hard, a metamorphosed gabbro that is massive and foliated. The Mount Index batholith that forms the Index Town Wall terminates near the altitude of Lake Serene.

The nearness of the peaks to civilization has contributed to accidents; there have been falls from rock faces in summer and steep snow gullies in winter. The low-level cliffs above Lake Serene are an invitation to a slip from the slopes above, and the difficult travel near the lake has led to tragedy.

The North Peak is the most legendary of the Index trio, and rightly so. Located 1/2 mi. N of the Main Peak, it rises in a sheer rock wall from the 2800-ft level of the Lake Serene cirque, from even lower on the N and W, where three main ribs and numerous steep gullies rise from the basin of Anderson Creek. A deep and knifed notch connects the North Peak to the Middle Peak. The actual summit is a massive pointed rock spire. On its N is a wedge with small horns. South of the summit is no.1 horn (small and pointed) at about 150 ft below summit level. Then about 100 ft S at the same level is the giant no.2 horn (it has a steep S face dropping to the Middle-North Peak notch).

Because of their visibility to the highway and railroad, the Index peaks have captured the imagination of the public. In particular the diminutive yet formidable North Peak had come to embody the savagery of the Cascades. Its climbing demands effort and route-finding skill. The lower section has some brushy rock, but is not really unpleasant if dry; the three leads on the upper N rib are enjoyable and exposed. It is a climb for good judgment, weather, and a team in good condition: it should be remembered that there is no quick descent in case of poor weather; rain will start stonefall. Bushes and small trees are generally reliable for protection -- often more useful than pitons or chocks. Be prepared for a bivouac on this climb.

Lionel Chute, a climber rather unknown to his contemporaries, persevered through four attempts in two years before making the first ascent with Victor Kaartinen of Boy Scout Troop 263 in 1929. During the successful ascent they only had a 40-ft manila rope, which nearly broke after being cast over a rock horn and then hand climbed. Apparently Chute's verbal account was not widely accepted and the party that had a near-fatality on July 11, 1937 hoped to make the first ascent. Joe Halwax, Scott Osborn, and Stanley King were within 600 ft of the summit when Halwax took a 60-ft leader fall and suffered a broken leg; fortunately he was held by the rope snubbed around a rock. In an unprecedented rescue, nineteen Forest Service men and Index loggers worked all night to evacuate him. In 1940 Otto Trott and Erick Larson reached the summit to find proof of Chute's climb. The third ascent, the first without a bivouac, was made by Fred and Helmy Beckey on July 1, 1945. The first winter ascent was made by Patrik Callis and Dan Davis between January 3 and 6, 1963. References: A.A.J., 1946, pp. 43-44; Off Belay, October 1979, pp. 10-12.

The route shown, if you can see it in the sunlight lower east face, is the second variation, exiting the east face via the upper ramp system.

The sunlit right-hand skyline is the recommended lower North Rib, the third variation.

This, the original route and the one followed by all but a few of the parties to reach the summit, actually begins from a broken, bushy spur on the NE, which rises from a wooded ridge above Lake Serene. The route stays on NNE exposure, rather than true N until reaching the upper N rib.

From the rockslide on the W side of Lake Serene, ascend talus and grass slopes leading to the NE spur. Begin by scrambling several hundred ft on the brushy spur to the first slab. Keep just right of the crest to the base of a vertical face. Ascend left sharply and then to the crest on the left. Climb an exposed corner pitch and traverse left 15 ft to a gully just above a sheer wall. Climb about 50 ft up a rock bowl, then cut sharply right (behind a block) around the skyline via a hidden ledge. The ledge traverse develops into an exposed slab (has a short section of small holds). Round a corner to the base of a steep, brushy, shallow gully. Turn up it and climb two leads to the slanting ramp system which bears right about 400 ft to the large open basin on the true N face (may have snow to mid-season). Ascend (either snow or rock) for three-four leads up the right-curving, steep gully rising above the left side of the basin. Note: when free of snow it is made more difficult by slabby rock (hard to protect), can be marginal when wet.

As the gully ends, ascend a broad, right-slanting ramp to the sharp N rib. Ascend it for three leads (first two leads are class 5.5 on solid, exposed rock) to an open grassy bench (end of rib). Follow it left around corner toward the E face. The bench ends abruptly at a prominent gully leading up-face. Ascend this, largely scrubs and brush for 100 ft. When it forks, follow left branch through larger trees for two leads to a steep heather slope just below the crest. Follow the crest right on easy rock to the first false summit. Following a little depression climb SW to the second point, then drop 50 ft to avoid a cliff. Final summit is done by heather and broken rock on its N side.
Grade III; class 4 - 5.6. Time: 6 - 8 hours up; 5 down.
References: A.A.J., 1946, p.43; Mountaineer, 1946, p.44.

Variation:
On the lower portion of the climb, from the "hidden ledge" ascend a steep rock wall to a large hanging brush patch. Imitate a gorilla through the brush and bear right along the oblique slab and ramp system several hundred ft to the open basin.

Variation:
Ascend the headwall of the "rock bowl" to the next ledge system (a slower option; class 5.5 with poor protection). Then work right to the N-face basin.

Variation on North Rib:
From the "open basin" on the N face, make a rising traverse (right) to the N rib. Gain the crest and ascend it directly. The final obstacle is a near-vertical gendarme, which is ascended directly (good rock). This variation is steep and exposed, with enjoyable rock, but not difficult.

My recommendation is to find a better climb. Although I enjoyed it, I want to second Beckey by emphasizing that quite a bit of the climb is loose, vegetated, can be hard to protect, and is therefore dangerous. As a climb it's "interesting." It can be considered a classic only as a well-frozen winter climb.

If you have to do it in summer, I suggest the third variation, the lower North Rib. To gain it, avoid the path of least resistance of continuing up the rock bowl of the lower east face (the second variation). Finding the hidden ledge will have you lower down when you reach the large open basin, from where access to the enjoyable lower North Rib is straightforward.

However you do it, the climb will take you nearly as long to get down as to get up. We (a reasonably competent rope of two) did it in five hours up, a half hour on the summit, and five hours down to Lake Serene. On the way up we soloed the large open basin until we scared ourselves on the increasingly steep munge, at which point a belay involved lashing together clumps of flowers.

Our descent involved finding a route back down a thousand vertical feet of x-rated, no-fall soloing plus a thousand vertical feet of occasionally amusing rappels. Somewhat pedantically, let me remind you why I say "vertical." Assuming a reasonable average angle of 50°, two thousand vertical feet equals over half a mile of ground. But the route wanders, and so will you.

It's not Yosemite grade III. It's Cascades grade III.

Pete's Porridge
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